How to Paint Dry Wall: Tips By Interior Painter Brampton
Would you like to have a new Interior paint on Drywall? To do this, you will need to paint some parts, either to refresh the old paint or to
completely change the color. Here's a guide to help you prepare your Drywall
painting before you take out the brush and roller.
Preparing for drywall painting
Before you start, must make sure that
you have all the important painting
tools.
Here is a list of what you might need,
depending on the condition of the drywalls and ceiling in the room to be
painted:
- Different sized knives
- Plaster to fill
- Putty to fill small holes
- Grid type sandpaper
- Fairly fine standard sandpaper
- Adhesive fiberglass grid
- A sanding block
- A degreaser for walls
- A "Swiffer"
- Basic tools (screwdriver, hammer,
exact, etc.)
- A mask and protective glasses
- If possible, a
"Shop-vac" type vacuum cleaner
Preparation work may release a lot of
dust and dirt (or little if you follow our sanding advice below!). If possible,
remove furniture completely from the room. If this option turns out
to be too complicated, group your furniture in the middle of the room and cover
it with a drop cloth.
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Step 1: Prepare for the repair
Before repairing all holes and cracks,
remove each nail and screw. You can push the excess drywall inside the wall
using the tip of a screwdriver. If necessary, sand the outside of the hole
gently until you can no longer feel a bump.
Take the opportunity to correct the
imperfections of the old paint that may come out despite the application of the
new Interior painting. Small dents are often found on the drywalls
caused by excess dried paint. Use the blade of your exact to remove
imperfections. In the majority of cases, you will not have to plaster afterwards,
but still, check that your corrections are not noticeable when you run your
hand flat on the wall.
Step 2: Repairing holes and cracks
This is where your patching plaster and
putty come into play. Make sure you dust well around your holes, otherwise the
dust could interfere with your plaster work.
And if you want to save time, fill in
the holes starting with the biggest and ending with the smallest.
If you have to repair a large whole (2
cm 2 and more), it may be preferable to cover it with an adhesive grid (see
image below). This will help the plaster to adhere, and the grid
will disappear during your sanding.
This way, you are less likely to
distinguish between repairs after your Interior painting job is finished.
For reference, for a whole 2 cm 2, you
can easily apply your cast on an area of 20 cm 2 or more.
Besides, try to smooth the surface
well, leaving as little excess as possible, but make sure you never dig a
cavity towards the inside of the drywall, otherwise you will have to start
over. To help you, use a larger knife for larger sized holes.
The principle is the same for cracks,
but if they are rather thin, the use of an adhesive mesh is not necessary.
Remember that for larger holes you will
need to wait at least 4 hours for the plaster to dry properly, but it is
generally advisable to wait overnight before sanding. You can however rely on
the indications; drying time varies from product to product. Some filler
plasters change colour when completely dry, but they are more expensive.
Step 3: Sanding
This is arguably the most
time-consuming step, but by following these few tips you can make sanding a lot
less frustrating and dusting a lot less time-consuming.
If you have a lot of sanding to do
this, invest in a sanding block that plugs into a “Shop Vac” vacuum. This kind
of tool sells for around twenty dollars only. Do not deprive yourself of
it.
By using it, you will reduce the amount
of dust that falls to the ground and spreads through the air almost to zero.
But don't take a chance, wear a mask and safety glasses anyway, and please
don't plug this tool into your new central vacuum. You risk damaging it as
plaster dust can pass through conventional filters.
Once the larger one is removed, finish
the job with finer sandpaper.
After you finish, make sure the
surfaces you sanded are smooth and level with the wall.
The best way to do this is to run your
hand flat on the surface. You shouldn't feel any bumps or cavities. On the
other hand, even if you use the best possible technique, there is a good chance
that you will have to plaster some areas. Don't worry, this is completely
normal. Do not lose patience and go through the plaster and sanding step again.
Step 4: Cleaning
The following cleaning method is
prescribed for latex painted walls. Before giving a basecoat, you should clean
your drywalls to remove dirt and dust that might get stuck in the fresh
paint. We recommend using a Swiffer to keep you from constantly getting on
and off a stepladder, but a large sponge can also do the trick. Provide a
boiler of clean water and a boiler of water mixed with a cleaning product such
as TSP
Step 5: Basecoat and Paint on Repairs
If you keep the original colour of the your wall you don't need to apply
a basecoat. On the other hand, you should ideally cover your repairs with a
primer, then a new coat of paint once the primer has dried.
If all goes well, this will allow you
to complete the job with just one final coat, but be sure to stick to the paint
drying time!
However, if you change the color, you
can still start with a base coat on the repairs and then over the entire
surface to be painted. This is the optimal method to prevent the plaster from
appearing after the work is completed.
Do you know how to use Drywall Anchors, No. Den't worry click here to read: How to Use Drywall Anchors Easy Tips
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